1963 ford thunderbird timing belt
It's also important to check the timing cover itself for any damage, as timing covers are often made from aluminum or plastic and even minor cracks can contribute to oil loss. However, a worn out gasket is not the only reason oil might be leaking near your timing cover. This can result in oil leaks, coolant leaks, engine overheating, and other issues. Over time, your timing cover gaskets may crack or fail due to age or other damage. Timing cover gaskets and seals are typically made of rubber, cork, or silicone, and are designed to withstand the high temperatures and pressures generated by the engine as it runs. These seals keep the timing chain or belt free from debris and help prevent oil from leaking or becoming contaminated. Many timing cover gasket sets also include a press-fit seal that fits around the crankshaft and seals the opening that receives the harmonic balancer. Related CategoriesĪ timing cover gasket set includes any necessary gaskets and seals needed to provide an oil seal between the timing cover and engine block, as well as to seal the timing cover to other components such as the water pump or oil pump. Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Spool Valve Filter Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid Gasket Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Camshaft Sensor Wish i could attach pics, but I cannot get anything to work cut/paste, insert.whatever knowledge I have didn't work.Fuel Filter And Pressure Regulator Assembly Other lesson learned: Make sure not to go too far to the out board sides to avoid drilling on any welds, but leave enough room to accommodate the large washers. Step 7: Just tighten down each bolt attaching belts directly to floor, re-attach seats and voila. Just easier that way as he could use a ratchet from there more easily than I could use a wrench, where I had to get around my exhaust pipes. I then had my helper turn the bolt while I held on to the nut to tighten. Step 6: While my neighbor held the bolts in place, beneath the car put on the large 2" washer, locking washer and the nut. Hence my conclusion to bolt directly to the floor pan. Simply lowering then would get in the way of the seat bottom not fitting well. They sat too high to allow me to install the seat back properly. Here's where I ran into trouble with using the eye-bolts. I put the belt with the buckle in the in-board (close to the drive shaft well, the through the new holes I had just drilled, and bolt them in for fit. Step 5: Insert bolt through the seat-belt plate. Step 3: I measured about 14" do the outside of each in-board hole, and slightly down to accommodate the slope of the seat-back line. Holes closest to the middle were marked where the floor-pan starts to well up to accommodate the drive shaft, one on each side of the well. Step 2: using seatback in place, I marked out areas just below the seat-back bottom line where the belts will fit between seat-back and seat bottom.
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What I was able to use nicely were the four 2 inch wide washers to help secure and protect underneath the vehicle.
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So what I did was get four 1.5" stainless 7/16" bolts, with matching standard nuts, lock-washers. I bolted the clip fixture straight to the floor pan. In the end, I didn't use the eye-bolts because they stick out too much and prevent the seat back and bottom to fit properly. On the 4 that I ordered, all the nuts were coarse thread while the looped bolts were fine thread. Secondly, make sure you check the threading on the bolts and the nuts. I am leaving them for now until the shorter belts are available. 74" are too long, and won't tighten down enough across a lap. For the first hint, you can easily get away with 54 or 60" belts. So I will do my best to describe what I did:įor the rear, I installed the recommended 74" air-line style seat belts. First, I am a techno-idiot, because I cannot seem to get pics in this forum.